San Juan, you dirty dog, you.

For starters, I'd like to clarify that the title has no contextual significance. Rather, I got a kick out of addressing a Saint with street lingo. I realize that this is incredibly sacrilegious of me, but I still find it funny. I understand if you think that I am an awful person.

This past weekend (if I had a peso for every time I started an entry with that phrase...I might have enough for a gum ball), we all made the trek to Tomé, the coastal town where all of my Chilean extended family resides. Why, you ask? Well, according to my host mom, it was my grandfather's Saint's birthday.

Quick interjection...your weekly Chilean cultural lesson. Most people down here are named after a Saint (everyone and their mom is Catholic...and I am, too, by the way for all intents and purposes). So, not only do people celebrate their own birthday, but they also celebrate their Saint's birthday. I've come to find that Chileans will use virtually any excuse to break out the grill and some vino (Chilean red, that is).

So anyways, when I asked my madre whether it was Abuelito Juan's birthday birthday or his Saint's birthday, she said, "both." I am also a sucker for coincidence, and enthusiastically responded with the Spanish equivalent of, "Wow! Neat-O! What are the odds of that!?" This conversation took place over lunch and everyone at the table set their forks down and looked at me like I was estúpida. They then explained, not bothering to muffle their sniggers, that his mother more than likely named him Juan because he was born on El Día de San Juan. Oops...missed that one.

For El Día de San Juan, there was a big feast complete with Argentinian steak, grilled chicken (as in the whole chicken), empanadas, seafood stew, and (of course) cake. On the way back to Concepcion that night, Dani, Gloria, and Ivanna were telling me all about the rituals that were to be carried out in honor of San Juan.

1. The suitcases

You take an empty suitcase and walk around the perimeter of your house (or apartment building) at midnight. In doing so, you bring about a year of worldy travels. 

2. The potatoes

Under your bed before going to sleep, you place three potatoes under your bed...one with the skin, one that is halfway peeled, and one that is completely peeled. In the morning when you wake up, you're supposed to blindly reach under your bed and grab a potato. If you pick the the peeled potato, this is a sign of good fortune and a prosperous life. If you pick the half-peeled potato, you will have a content life but without any great successes. If you are unfortunate enough to draw the unpeeled potato, you will experience many difficulties in life.

3. The "papelitos" (papel=paper)

On three pieces of paper, you write the names of three different people in whom you have a romantic interest. At midnight, fold the pieces of paper and place them under your pillow. In the morning, upon waking, reach under your pillow and select one of the "papelitos." The person you choose (depending on who you ask) is your one true love or your future spouse.

4. The mirror

Also, at midnight (I have yet to figure out how exactly one is supposed to accomplish all of these things...at midnight) you're supposed to go into the bathroom with the lights off and the door closed, turn around three times in front of the mirror, and light a candle. Supposedly, you will see a demon's reflection in the mirror. Although terrifying, this sight will cleanse your soul.

Of these, I immediately opted out of the first and fourth options. Not to be a party pooper, but it was cold and raining and I had no desire to tote (or roll) and empty suitcase around the apartment complex. Anyhow, given my past twelve months of worldly travels, I will be perfectly content to remain stateside for this next year. As far as the latter is concerned, I am not one to partake in such balderdash (that word was for you, Aunt Jo!). Besides, even if I were to believe in this superstitious nonsense, chosing between seeing a demon's reflection and a dirty soul is a no-brainer. What fun are clean souls anyway?

The rain on San Juan:

 

As for the other two, I was a good Chilean sport. Due the fact that on the weekends I sleep on Dani's trundle bed, there was no room for potatoes of my own. So, we all used the same set of potatoes and decided that we would just have to share the same financial destiny. In the morning, Dani (our selected representative) reached under the bed and chose the half-peeled potato. I'll take it. 

When it came to the papelitos, I jotted the first two names down fairly easily. The third piece of paper remained blank for a good while. After much input from Gloria (she started immediately reeling off single, male relatives...anything to keep me in the country) and some contemplation of my own, I wrote "someone that I haven't met yet." I got yelled at for cheating but "José Manuel" wasn't about to make the cut. In the morning, I selected my papelito. I was pleased with the result........

Come on, I have to keep my readers enticed somehow! Nothing like a little romantic mystery to spice things up, eh?

My dear San Juan, 

Thanks for a year free of travel, a life without excess, prince charming, and the dirty soul.

Yours truly,

The Gringa